The island is called The Big
Island for a reason. We drove around the Southern tip and over to Hilo on what
turned out to be a 3 hour road trip. On the way we stopped at a lovely farmer's
market where we were talked in to even more Mexican food. Chile verde served
from the back of a van was on the menu this time and it was delicious! Scott
set a vendor straight about Utah having no world championship skiers (Hello?
Ted Ligety!) and we were back on our journey. Hilo was a short stop for
provisions and then we headed South to Kalapana.
We reached our destination
when the road ended at a bay now full of lava. The black desert of lava was
sharp contrast to the lush green we had driven through for miles. After dodging
countless hippies hitchhiking along the road, we met our guide at a
"coffee shop". A large compound complete with bar, stage, and small
wood buildings set into a tropical forest comprised the coffee shop and was
where we met our guide Kyson.
Us and 7 other couples were driven along the old
highway which had in many places been swallowed by lava. We were dropped off
and left in what seemed another world. Oozing, rippling lava had cooled and
left ripples, braids, crevices and blobs that we hiked over and around. for
hours. Some of the lava had been there for years, some as little as a few
months and some was oozing fresh from the earth. Along the way we were rewarded
with views of the ocean and even a rainbow.
Suddenly the wind blew and the
skies opened up just long enough to soak us to the skin. But the rainstorm was
brief and so was the short hike over to the coast. Steam billowed up hundreds
of feet into the air. Molten lava glowed as it waterfalled down into the ocean.
Waves crashed into the fiery flows creating a spectacular show. After watching
mesmerized for 45 minutes we hiked back in the dark. Hovering barely above the
horizon in the North was the big dipper. The only sounds were our feet
crunching on the lava. The terrain was void of any of the nature sounds that
usually fill the Hawaiian skies. What an amazing night!
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